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Showing posts with label Home and Garden. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Home and Garden. Show all posts

Smart Heater Controller

Minuscule circuit of the electronic heater controller presented here is built around the renowned 3-Pin Integrated Temperature Sensor LM35 (IC1) from NSC. Besides, a popular Bi Mos Op-amp CA3140 (IC2) is used to sense the status of the temperature sensor IC1, which also controls a solid-state switch formed by a high power Triac BT136(T1). Resistive type electric heater at the output of T1 turns to ON and to OFF states as instructed by the control circuit.

This gadget can be used as an efficient and safe heater in living rooms, incubators, heavy electric/electronic instrument etc. Normally, when the temperature is below a set value (Decided by multi-turn preset pot P1), voltage at the inverting input (pin2) of IC1 is lower than the level at the non-inverting terminal (pin3). So, the comparator output (at pin 6) of IC1 goes high and T1 is triggered to supply mains power to the desired heater element.

Electronic Heater Controller Circuit Schematic.



Note: CA3140 (IC2) is highly sensitive to electrostatic discharge (ESD). Please follow proper IC Handling Procedures.

When the temperature increases above the set value, say 50-60 degree centigrade, the inverting pin of IC1 also goes above the non-inverting pin and hence the comparator output falls. This stops triggering of T1 preventing the mains supply from reaching the heater element. Fortunately, the threshold value is user-controllable and can be set anywhere between 0 to 100 Degree centigrade.

The circuit works off stable 9Volt dc supply, which may be derived from the mains supply using a standard ac mains adaptor (100mA at 9V) or using a traditional capacitive voltage divider assembly. You can find such power circuits elsewhere in this website.

DC Fan Controller

This circuit is ideal to control the cooling fan of heat generated electronic gadgets like power amplifiers. The circuit switches on a fan if it senses a temperature above the set level. The fan automatically turns off when the temperature returns to normal.

The circuit uses an NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient) Thermister to sense heat. NTC Thermister reduces its resistance when the temperature in its vicinity increases.IC1 is used as a voltage comparator with two potential dividers in its inputs. Resistor R1 and VR1 forms one potential divider connected to the non inverting input of IC1 and another potential divider comprising R2 and the 4.7K Thermister supplying a variable voltage to the inverting input of IC1. VR1 is adjusted so as to give slightly lesser voltage at the non inverting input than the inverting input at room temperature.

DC Fan Controller Circuit

In this state, output of IC1 will be low and the Fan remains off. When the temperature near the Thermister increases, its resistance decreases and conducts. This drops the voltage at pin 2 of IC1 and its output becomes high. T1 then triggers and fan turn on. Red LED indicates that fan is running. Capacitor C1 gives a short lag before T1 turns on to avoid false triggering and to give proper bias to T1.DC fan can be the one used in Computer SMPS.

Keep the Thermistor near the heat sink of the Amplifier PCB and switch on the amplifier for 10 minutes. Then adjust VR1 till the Fan stop running.When the temperature rises, Fan will automatically switch on.

Ultrasonic Dog Whistle

It's well known that many animals are particularly sensitive to high-frequency sounds that humans can't hear. Many commercial pest repellers based on this principle are available, most of them operating in the range of 30 to 50 kHz. My aim was, however, to design a slightly different and somewhat more powerful audio frequency/ultrasonic sound generator that could be used to train dogs. Just imagine the possibilities - you could make your pet think twice before barking again in the middle of the night or even subdue hostile dogs (and I guess burglars would love that!). From what I've read, dogs and other mammals of similar size behave much differently than insects.

They tend to respond best to frequencies between 15 and 25 kHz and the older ones are less susceptible to higher tones. This means that an ordinary pest repeller won't work simply because dogs can't hear it. Therefore, I decided to construct a new circuit (based on the venerable 555, of course) with a variable pitch and a relatively loud 82 dB miniature piezo beeper. The circuit is very simple and can be easily assembled in half an hour. Most of the components are not really critical, but you should keep in mind that other values will probably change the operating frequency. Potentiometer determines the pitch: higher resistance means lower frequency. Since different dogs react to different frequencies, you'll probably have to experiment a bit to get the most out of this tiny circuit. The circuit is shown below:

Circuit diagram
Circuit Project: Ultrasonic Dog Whistle

Despite the simplicity of the circuit, there is one little thing. The 10nF (.01) capacitor is critical as it, too, determines the frequency. Most ceramic caps are highly unstable and 20% tolerance is not unusual at all. Higher capacitance means lower frequency and vice-versa. For proper alignment and adjustment, an oscilloscope would be necessary. Since I don't have one, I used Winscope. Although it's limited to only 22 kHz, that's just enough to see how this circuit works. There is no need to etch a PCB for this project, perf board will do. Test the circuit to see how it responds at different frequencies. A 4k7 potentiometer in conjunction with a 10nF (or slightly bigger) capacitor gives some 11 to 22kHz, which should do just fine. Install the circuit in a small plastic box and if you want to, you can add a LED pilot light.

Power consumption is very small and a 9V battery should last a long time. Possible further experimentation: I'm working on an amplified version of the whistle to get a louder beep. All attempts so far haven't been successful as high frequency performance tends to drop dramatically with the 555. Perhaps I could use a frequency doubler circuit - I just don't know and I've run out of ideas. One other slightly more advanced project could be a simple "anti-bark" device with a sound-triggered (clap) switch that sets off the ultrasonic buzzer as soon as your dog starts to bark.

Garage Door Closing Circuit Just using Relays

Because I’m old school, I wanted to build a Garage Door Closing circuit without relying on integrated configurations (555 timer etc) to keep it simplistic. The circuit closes the garage door after two minutes with C3 and four minutes with the addition of C2. The timer relay is surprisingly accurate (+/- five seconds). Another feature is to ensure that the garage door actually did close, such as if it’s stopped mid-operation by the user.


Garage Door Closing Circuit Just using Relays

Description:

S3 (magnetic N.C.) is located at the garage door and activates the circuit when the garage door opens.
RL1 is the reset timer. It’s maintained in the “on” position for two minutes by C3 while the trigger capacitor, C4, is charged. RL2 is the conduit, directing C4 to either RL3 or R1 to ground when off. Purpose of R1 is to prevent arching across contacts and a fast discharge. RL3’s contacts are connected to the Garage Door’s Momentary Switch and is sustained “on”  for a half second by C5.

When C3 discharges to the cutoff voltage of RL1, it turns off and resets. C4 charges C5, which turns on RL3 and initiates the garage door. Because C4 does not have the time to fully discharge, it should be at least three times the value of C5. If it does not close, RL1 in countdown mode will reset and open the door. When it resets again, the door will close.

Turning off the circuit, C1 maintains RL1 “on” slightly longer to ensure that RL2 is set to discharge C4 to R1. If this is not done and C4 is not discharged, the garage door will not open until it discharges naturally and falls below the trigger voltage for RL3.  The circuit would be useless for several days.

Garage Door Closing Circuit Just using Relays

Notes:
  • Time delay of RL1 after reset drops 15 seconds because of the short charge time.
  • To boost RL3 to a one-second delay, increase C5 to 1000uF.
  • D2, D3, and D4 isolate the crucial sections of the circuit.
  • Relays do not turn off at the same rate. I conducted a test by tripping the circuit on and off at a high rate and discovered the possibility of C4 turning on RL3. The addition of C1 solved this.
Author: Roland Segers email@:speedmail-at-gmail.com

LED Brake/Rear Light Specifically for motorcycles Circuit diagram

LEDs are used more and more in motor vehicles, replacing the standard incandescent lamps because they are more energy efficient and have a much longer life expectancy. In this article we describe a simple LED tail light that has been specifically designed for motorcycles, scooters and mopeds. There appears to be a significant need among motorcyclists for rear lights with LEDs, as evidenced by the many messages on this topic that turn up in various internet forums. The circuits that accompany these messages are often very rudimentary and therefore not very robust.

Mini project:


When designing an LED light for a motorcycle the following criteria need to be considered:

• Large variations of on-board voltage, this has a significant influence on light intensity.
• The circuit has to be (mechanically) robust.
• High light output is required (visibility = safety).
• Clearly visible difference in light intensity between rear light and brake light function.

After reading some of the literature concerning the use of LEDs in motor vehicles, it appears that the most common reason why LEDs still fail is the incorrect and/or insufficient use of series resistors.
In poorly implemented circuits there are often a number of LEDs connected in parallel which are all fed from a single series resistor. Because of small variations between LEDs, one LED can quickly give up the ghost. This causes an increase in current through the remaining LEDs and can easily lead to a domino effect, ultimately resulting in the failure of the entire circuit.With high-intensity LEDs, a small variation in current is immediately obvious as a large variation in light output.

This has to be taken into account when designing a circuit. This is important because when the engine rev speed goes up, the on-board voltage increases significantly. It would appear that you were braking when you actually opened the throttle instead.LEDs need mainly a constant current.That is why most circuits choose to drive LEDs from a constant-current source.

Circuit

This circuit has been designed to operate both as a motorcycle rear light and as a brake light. This requires two different currents. Because the voltages measured on the author’s motorcycle varied from 10.5 to 15 V and because two different currents are required for the total of 17 high-intensity LEDs it was not possible to use only one constant-current source.

Circuit diagram:

The idea was to turn the strongly varying DC voltage into a nice constant voltage first and then turn that into a constant current through a number of series resistors. The problem that is highlighted in many forums is the fact that the signal for the brake light is a positive voltage. It would require a lot of work on the motorcycle to change this. That is why the decision was made for a de sign that regulates the voltage on the chassis side, with the aid of a negative voltage regulator, a 7908. The disadvantage of this arrangement is that an additional chassis wire is required; normally the minus side of the lamps is directly connected to the chassis of the motorcycle.

However, the advantage is that both the + from the rear light as well as the + from the brake light can be directly connected to the LEDs.The ‘lamp’ con sists of a centre part with nine round, red,5-mm LEDs (HLMP EG08 Y200) wi th positioned around that eight oval ,r e d L E D s HLMP AD61 of 5 mm.The round LEDs D12 through D20 which have qui te a narrow radi ation angle are connected in series in sets of 3. Three of the se ‘strings’ are connected in parallel and each string has its own series resistor.

The oval LEDs D4 to D11 which have a wide radiation pattern are connected with two in series, so there are therefore four strings connected in parallel. These ensure with their wide radiation angle of 110 degrees that the rear/brake-light is also clearly visible from the side.The oval and round strings are connected to the brake contact via diodes. When the brake is operated all the strings are presented with the +12V from the battery via the series resistors. The light intensity therefore depends on the current that flows as a result of the series resistor (and the voltage drop across the diodes).

When the brake is not operated, the LEDs strings are still connected to the positive voltage of the battery, but this time via additional resistors R1 and R2.Because of the value of these resistors,the current is much lower and therefore also the light intensity. The intensity of the brake light can be adjusted using the series resistors (R3 to R9) in each of the individual strings,the brightness of the rear light is selected with the additional series resistors R1 and R2.Diode D1 has been added to protect the circuit from reverse connection of the power supply voltage.Electrolytic capacitors finally provide filtering for the fairly large varying,and not so clean, voltage.

The circuit was built into a silver coloured tube by the author. The electronics are mounted on two pieces of prototyping board, one behind the other,in the tube. The front (visible) PCB holds the LEDs and the series resistors. The LEDs are arranged as indicated next to the schematic. The 9 round LEDs are mounted in the middle of the rear light in a square pattern. The oval LEDs are mounted in a circle around the square.

The second PCB contains the remaining parts and the regulator.You can modify the circuit to your heart’s content by adding more strings, each fitted with its own diode and two resistors (a series resistor such as R3) and a resistor to +12 V (such as R1).The total current (when braking), must not exceed the maximum rating of the voltage regulator, this amounts to 1 A.

Author : Marcel Ulrich Copyright : elektor

Heating System Thermostat Circuit

Controlled by indoor and outdoor temperature Simple, high reliability design

This circuit is intended to control a heating system or central heating plan, keeping constant indoor temperature in spite of wide range changes in the outdoor one. Two sensors are needed: one placed outdoors, in order to sense the external temperature; the other placed on the water-pipe returning from heating system circuit, short before its input to the boiler. The Relay contact wiring must be connected to the boiler's start-stop control input.
This circuit, though simple, has proven very reliable: in fact it was installed over 20 years ago at my parents' home. I know, it is a bit old: but it is still doing its job very well and without problems of any kind.

Circuit Diagram:

Heating-System-Thermostat-Circuit-diagram Heating System Thermostat Circuit diagram

Parts:

P1_____________1K Linear Potentiometer

R1_____________10R 1/4W Resistor
R2______________1K 1/4W Resistor
R3______________3K3 @ 20°C n.t.c. Thermistor (see Notes)
R4______________2K2 @ 20°C n.t.c. Thermistor (see Notes)
R5_____________10K 1/2W Trimmer Cermet
R6______________3K3 1/4W Resistor
R7,R9___________4K7 1/4W Resistors
R8____________470K 1/4W Resistor
R10____________10K 1/4W Resistor

C1,C2_________470µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C3______________1µF 63V Electrolytic Capacitor

D1,D2,D4_____1N4002 100V 1A Diodes
D3______________LED Red 3 or 5mm.

Q1____________BC557 45V 100mA PNP Transistor
Q2____________BC547 45V 100mA NPN Transistor
Q3____________BC337 45V 800mA NPN Transistor

RL1____________Relay with SPDT 2A @ 220V switch
Coil Voltage 12V. Coil resistance 200-300 Ohm

J1_____________Two ways output socket

SW1____________SPST Mains Switch

T1_____________220V Primary, 12 + 12V Secondary 3VA Mains transformer

PL1____________Male Mains plug &cable

Circuit Operation:

When Q1 Base to ground voltage is less than half voltage supply (set by R7 & R9), a voltage is generated across R8 and the driver transistors Q2 & Q3 switch-on the Relay. When Q1 Base to ground voltage is more than half voltage supply, caused when one of the n.t.c. Thermistors lowers its value due to an increase in temperature, no voltage appears across R8 and the Relay is off.
C3 allows a clean switching of the Relay. P1 acts as main temperature control.

Notes:

  • R3 is the outdoor sensor, R4 the indoor sensor.
  • If you are unable to find a 3K3 Thermistor for R3 you can use a 4K7 value instead. The different value can be easily compensated by means of Trimmer R5.
  • R5 allows to set the heating system for outdoor temperatures ranging from about +10°C downwards. The higher R5's resistance the hotter the heating system and vice versa.
  • The existing boiler thermostat should be set to its maximum value and not bypassed: it is necessary for safety's sake.
  • This circuit can be dispensed with its differential feature and converted into a simple precision thermostat omitting R3.

Source : www.redcircuits.com

Door Alarm Circuit

Hangs up on the door-handle Beeps when someone touches the door-handle from outside

This circuit emits a beep and/or illuminates a LED when someone touches the door-handle from the outside. The alarm will sound until the circuit will be switched-off.
The entire circuit is enclosed in a small plastic or wooden box and should be hanged-up to the door-handle by means of a thick wire hook protruding from the top of the case.
A wide-range sensitivity control allows the use of the Door Alarm over a wide variety of door types, handles and locks. The device has proven reliable even when part of the lock comes in contact with the wall (bricks, stones, reinforced concrete), but does not work with all-metal doors. The LED is very useful during setup.

Circuit diagram:

Door Alarm Circuit diagram Door Alarm Circuit diagram

Parts:

R1______________1M   1/4W Resistor
R2______________3K3 1 or 2W Resistor (See Notes)
R3_____________10K 1/2W Trimmer Cermet (See Notes)
R4_____________33K 1/4W Resistor
R5____________150K 1/4W Resistor
R6______________2K2 1/4W Resistor
R7_____________22K 1/4W Resistor
R8______________4K7 1/4W Resistor

C1,C2__________10nF 63V Ceramic or Polyester Capacitors
C3_____________10pF 63V Ceramic Capacitor
C4,C6_________100nF 63V Ceramic or Polyester Capacitors
C5______________2µ2 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C7____________100µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor


D1,D2,D4_____1N4148   75V 150mA Diodes
D3_____________5 or 3mm. Red LED

Q1,Q2,Q3,Q5___BC547 45V 100mA NPN Transistors
Q4____________BC557 45V 100mA PNP Transistor

L1_________________ (See Notes)
L2_____________10mH miniature Inductor

Hook_______________ (See Notes)

BZ1___________Piezo sounder (incorporating 3KHz oscillator)

SW1,SW2________SPST miniature Slider Switches

B1_______________9V PP3 Battery

Clip for PP3 Battery


Circuit operation:


Q1 forms a free-running oscillator: its output bursts drive Q2 into saturation, so Q3 and the LED are off. When part of a human body comes in contact with a metal handle electrically connected to the wire hook, the body capacitance damps Q1 oscillations, Q2 biasing falls off and the transistor becomes non conducting. Therefore, current can flow into Q3 base and D3 illuminates. If SW1 is closed, a self-latching circuit formed by Q4 & Q5 is triggered and the beeper BZ1 is activated.

When the human body part leaves the handle, the LED switches-off but the beeper continues to sound, due to the self-latching behavior of Q4 & Q5. To stop the beeper action, the entire circuit must be switched-off opening SW2. R3 is the sensitivity control, allowing to cope with a wide variety of door types, handles and locks.



Notes:




  • L1 is formed winding 20 to 30 turns of 0.4mm. diameter enameled copper wire on R2 body and soldering the coil ends to the resistor leads. You should fill R2 body completely with coil winding: the final turns' number can vary slightly, depending on different 1 or 2W resistor types actual length (mean dimensions for these components are 13 - 18mm. length and 5 - 6mm. diameter).


  • The hook is made from non-insulated wire 1 - 2mm. diameter (brass is well suited). Its length can vary from about 5 to 10cm. (not critical).


  • If the device is moved frequently to different doors, Trimmer R3 can be substituted by a common linear potentiometer fitted with outer knob for easy setup.


  • To setup the device hang-up the hook to the door-handle (with the door closed), open SW1 and switch-on the circuit. Adjust R3 until the LED illuminates, then turn slowly backwards the screwdriver (or the knob) until the LED is completely off. At this point, touching the door-handle with your hand the LED should illuminate, going off when the hand is withdrawn. Finally, close SW1 and the beeper will sound when the door-handle will be touched again, but will not stop until SW2 is opened.


  • In regular use, it is advisable to hang-up and power-on the device with SW1 open: when all is well settled, SW1 can be closed. This precautionary measure is necessary to avoid unwanted triggering of the beeper.



Source : www.redcircuits.com

230Vac Lamp Toggle Switch Circuit

Compact, transformerless circuitry No relays employed

Due to the low current drawing, the circuit can be supplied from 230Vac mains without a transformer. Supply voltage is reduced to 12Vdc by means of C1 reactance, a two diode rectifier cell D1 & D2 and Zener diode D3. IC1A, IC1B, R2, R3 and C3 form a reliable bounce-free toggle switch operated by P1. R4 and C4, wired to pin #6 of IC1B reset the circuit (lamp off) when power supply is applied. IC1C and IC1D wired in parallel act as a buffer, driving the Gate of the Triac through R5.

Circuit Diagram :

230Vac Lamp Toggle Switch Circuit diagram 230Vac Lamp Toggle Switch Circuit diagram

Parts:

R1____________470R   1/2W Resistor
R2_____________10K   1/4W Resistor
R3,R4_________100K   1/4W Resistors
R5______________1K   1/4W Resistor

C1____________330nF  400V Polyester Capacitor
C2____________100µF   25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C3____________100nF   63V Polyester or Ceramic Capacitor
C4_____________10µF   25V Electrolytic Capacitor

D1,D2________1N4007 1000V 1A Diodes
D3_________BZX79C12   12V 500mW Zener Diode
D4__________TIC206M  600V 4A TRIAC

IC1____________4011 Quad 2 Input NAND Gate CMos IC

P1_____________SPST Pushbutton

Note:

  • he circuit can be wired permanently to the mains supply as current drain is negligible.
  • Due to transformerless design there is no heat generation.
  • Low Gate-current Triacs are recommended.
  • Obviously, other appliances can be powered in place of a lamp, provided their power dissipation does not exceed about 400W @ 230V
  • 110-120Vac operation is easily obtained by simply changing C1 value to 680nF 250V. No further changes are necessary.
  • In some cases, e.g. when the controlled device is far from the toggle switch, a pilot LED could be necessary for monitoring purposes. If so, disconnect pin #10 of IC1C from pin #11 of IC1D and wire a LED and its 1K series current limiting resistor across pin #10 of IC1C and negative supply.
  • Warning! The circuit is connected to 230Vac mains, so some parts in the circuit board are subjected to lethal potential! Avoid touching the circuit when plugged in and enclose it in a plastic box.
  • Source: www.redcircuits.com

    Power Outage Warning Circuit

    5 to 15V supply - LED indicator Adjustable time detection

    A circuit capable of detecting even a very short power outage, can be useful, mainly if embedded into existing appliances like mains powered counters, timers, clocks and the like.

    At switch-on of the appliance, the LED illuminates, but pressing on P1 it goes off and remains in this state until a power outage occurs. When power supply is restored, the LED illuminates steadily until you press P1 again.

    The circuit sensitivity can be adjusted by Trimmer R5. This means that, under the control of R5, the LED may not light if the mains is missing for a short interval in the 1 to 15 seconds range.

    Circuit Diagram :

    PowerOutage Circuit diagram Power Outage Warning Circuit Diagram

    Circuit Operation :

    IC1A and IC1B NAND gates are wired as a set-reset flip-flop. R1 and C1 provide auto-set of the flip-flop when the circuit is powered, so pin 3 of IC1A goes high and pin 4 of IC1B goes low. This allows the outputs of IC1C and IC1D, wired in parallel as inverters, to go high driving the LED D1 on. The flip-flop is reset by pushing on P1.

    As the circuit is intended to be powered from the same appliance that is monitoring, the supply is derived from the ac voltage available at the existing transformer secondary winding (see the upper box of the circuit diagram enclosed in the dashed blue line). The circuit will work with ac voltage values in the 5 - 15V range.

    A simple diode-capacitor cell (D2-C2) is sufficient to provide the necessary dc voltage. A rather low value was chosen for C2 in order to allow the circuit to detect very short periods of power failure.

    The resistance value of R4 + R5 controls the discharge time of C2: with R5 set to the minimum value, the circuit will signal power outages from 1 sec. onwards. If R5 is set to the maximum, the circuit will signal power outages from about 15 sec. onwards.

    Notes :

    • R3 value should be reduced accordingly if the transformer's secondary ac voltage is below 10V
    • The circuit can be constructed as an independent unit by simply adding a small transformer with a primary winding suited to the local mains voltage and a secondary winding rated from 5 to 15V AC.

    Source :www.redcircuits.com

    Heating System Thermostat

    Controlled by indoor and outdoor temperature, Simple, high reliability design

    This circuit is intended to control a heating system or central heating plan, keeping constant indoor temperature in spite of wide range changes in the outdoor one. Two sensors are needed: one placed outdoors, in order to sense the external temperature; the other placed on the water-pipe returning from heating system circuit, short before its input to the boiler.
    The Relay contact wiring must be connected to the boiler's start-stop control input. This circuit, though simple, has proven very reliable: in fact it was installed over 20 years ago at my parents' home. I know, it is a bit old: but it is still doing its job very well and without problems of any kind.

    Circuit Diagram:

    Heating System Thermostat Circuit Diagram Heating System Thermostat Circuit Diagram

    Parts:

    P1 = 1K Linear Potentiometer
    R1 = 10R-1/4W Resistor
    R2 = 1K-1/4W Resistor
    R3 = 3K3 @ 20°C n.t.c. Thermistor (see Notes)
    R4 = 2K2 @ 20°C n.t.c. Thermistor (see Notes)
    R5 = 10K-1/2W Trimmer Cermet
    R6 = 3K3-1/4W Resistor
    R7 = 4K7-1/4W Resistors
    R8 = 470K-1/4W Resistor
    R9 = 4K7-1/4W Resistors
    R10 = 10K-1/4W Resistor
    C1 = 470µF-25V Electrolytic Capacitors
    C2 = 470µF-25V Electrolytic Capacitors
    C3 = 1µF-63V Electrolytic Capacitor
    D1 = 1N4002 - 100V 1A Diodes
    D2 = 1N4002 - 100V 1A Diodes
    D4 = 1N4002 - 100V 1A Diodes
    D3 = LED Red 3 or 5mm.
    Q1 = BC557 - 45V 100mA PNP Transistor
    Q2 = BC547 - 45V 100mA NPN Transistor
    Q3 = BC337 - 45V 800mA NPN Transistor
    J1 = Two ways output socket
    T1 = 220V Primary, 12 + 12V Secondary 3VA Mains transformer
    PL1 = Male Mains plug &cable
    SW1 = SPST Mains Switch
    RL1 = Relay with SPDT 2A @ 220V switch Coil Voltage 12V. Coil resistance 200-300 Ohm

    Circuit operation:
    When Q1 Base to ground voltage is less than half voltage supply (set by R7 & R9), a voltage is generated across R8 and the driver transistors Q2 & Q3 switch-on the Relay. When Q1 Base to ground voltage is more than half voltage supply, caused when one of the n.t.c. Thermistors lowers its value due to an increase in temperature, no voltage appears across R8 and the Relay is off. C3 allows a clean switching of the Relay. P1 acts as main temperature control.

    Notes:

    • R3 is the outdoor sensor, R4 the indoor sensor.
    • If you are unable to find a 3K3 Thermistor for R3 you can use a 4K7 value instead. The different value can be easily compensated by means of Trimmer R5.
    • R5 allows setting the heating system for outdoor temperatures ranging from about +10°C downwards. The higher R5's resistance the hotter the heating system and vice versa.
    • The existing boiler thermostat should be set to its maximum value and not bypassed: it is necessary for safety's sake.
    • This circuit can be dispensed with its differential feature and converted into a simple precision thermostat omitting R3.

    Source :www.extremecircuits.net